Glens and peaks...

The weather today was a lot better than forecast with the predicted showers skirting the island and cloud billowing around the high tops but never closing in.  It was a glorious day for photographs and I took a visiting photographer on a journey through the big glens and over the Saddle.  We were treated to a flypast by a couple of golden eagles, and some great views of a bachelor herd of red deer stags. My wildlife photos are useless but hopefully my landscapes will stand up to a bit of scrutiny!  My photographer companion Ann Holmes' photos on the other hand are astonishing, follow this link to see the photos she took during her visit to Arran including on her day out with me. 

The morning mist clinging to Cir Mhor as we set off up Glen Sannox

The Sleeping Warrior resting in the clouds. 

The view along the ridge from The Saddle. 

Looking south to Glen Rosa with the low winter sun in our eyes. 

The classic view to Cir Mhor from Glen Rosa

Unfinished Gully

Yesterday Wally and I headed up to the Saddle to have a look at a line we spotted last weekend. It had looked continuous from floor to sky with good ice all the way so it seemed worth an early start and a bit of optimism.  The gully is the thinnest and steepest of three that split the wall to the right of the Whin Dyke.
When we arrived at the base, water was running behind the thin smear of ice where the gully exits the face so we walked up the right hand gully to where we could traverse in to see if we could set up a toprope.  No belays were forthcoming, so we entered the gully at the second pitch where the ice issues from a winding cleft. Here it was firmer and we followed a scrappy line with several small steps at about grade II.  A chockstone was easily passed on the left at the gully exit. The lower unclimbed section looked like it would be about grade III in fatter conditions. The climbing was fun, but aesthetically this was an ugly route with thin ice, frozen turf and just a little snow.

Gorgeous spring sunlight in Glen Sannox

Wally hunting for belays above the bottom section

Final chockstone

Still wintery in the hills!

Quick Scramble over The Saddle

Walking through the Glens from Sannox to Glen Rosa via the saddle is one of the great linear walks on the Isle of Arran, but it should not be underestimated.  Whilst the height gain is fairly minimal (less than 450m), there is a steep climb out of Glen Sannox, and a little scramble up a chimney known as the Whin Dyke to gain the saddle between the two glens.

We left the car at the bus stop opposite the Wineport on the outskirts of Brodick and hopped on a bus at about 1100 this morning.  Not long after we alighted at Sannox, and began the long walk up the glen. It was great to be traveling light for a change as the low altitude of the walk meant no need for axe, crampons, or lots of other heavy gear.

Approaching The Saddle (on the left of Cir Mhor) at the head of Glen Sannox. 

Beginning the steep climb up to the base of the chimney, which provides an exit on to the ridge. The alternative is heavily eroded hillside- unpleasant. 

 

The scramble up the Whin Dyke is on rocky steps on the left of the chimney, straightforward to climb when dry, a good bit more dodgy in descent, especially when wet. 

Yes that's me.

 

Beautiful light on the Saddle.  The peak in the middle is North Goatfell. Goatfell's main summit is on the right

partially obscured by the mist.

 

Descending in to Glen Rosa.  There is a burn to cross near the head of the glen which can be tricky after heavy rain. 

Looking back up Glen Rosa to Cir Mhor from the south.  It is about at this point that we were treated to views of a pair of golden eagles, flying over the hillside above. 

Low Winter Sun: Cioch na h-Oighe

I think I have been up Cioch na h-Oighe more than any other ridge or peak on Arran. Close to the road, it is just a steep heather bash from Glen Sannox and a great choice for a shorter day if you want to get in to technical rocky scrambling terrain.  The rock is generally sound, the views immense, and it is one of the quietest places in the Northern Hills- I rarely meet anyone else up there.

So, this morning, a long lie and a good weather forecast lured us back up there with a promise of a fun scramble and some winter sunshine.  We were not disappointed. I think it would be hard for me to get tired of this fantastic ridge.

 

Walking up Glen Sannox for a short distance, before cutting up to the left and towards the Devil's Punchbowl. 

I've have described this route a few times, but in case you are new to the blog- climbing up to the Cioch involves taking a path leading up towards the Devil's Punchbowl, above Sannox, and then picking a traverse line under the nose of the Cioch, before scrambling over slabs and scree to reach the upper slopes.  The final tower forms a hooked prow, spectacular in profile.  On the left, the terrifying crags of The Bastion drop away, and to the right, steep but heathery slopes in to Glen Sannox.

Arriving on the Cioch, we were blinded by the low winter sun.  It was glorious, but a bit much so we gratefully dropped down in to the notch beyond, and followed the undualting crest over granite blocks and through narrow squeezes until the ridge broadened in to the flanks of Mullach Buidhe.

 

Cir Mhor from Mullach Buidhe

Beyond Mulllach Buidhe, there is a short descent before the final climb on to North Goatfell. Here the bright sun dazzled us again,  The view from the summit was incredible, and as well as the snow capped highlands to the North we could also make out Jura, and for the first time ever- clearly, the Isle of Mull to the Northwest.

On the summit of North Goatfell

Finally we began our descent down to The Saddle between North Goatfell and Cir Mhor. In places the path is heavily eroded and a fine scree of granite gravel means that care is required on descent.  From the saddle we traversed a short distance under the North East flank of Cir Mhor, before descending a well marked but scree filled Gully above the Whinstone Dyke.  From here, in descent, you have a choice of continuing to folow loose scree to the right (facing out) or descending the dyke itself, which is steep but certainly preferable in dry conditions.  There is plenty for hands, but the footholds are a bit polished by time, boots and running water. 

At last we arrived back in to Glen Sannox, and all that remained was a long stomp out of the glen as the light failed.  We passed a small herd of stags on the way, who crossed the river to avoid us, but still allowed us great views of their magnificent head gear.

Winter Marches On

A couple of days worth of pics here- the first lot are from Wednesday when we headed up Beinn a Chliabhain and then descended in to Coire a Bhradain to see if any of the climbs on Nuis and Tarsuinn were in condition.

Sadly the sun had melted too much of the easier gullies already and not enough ice had formed in the harder lines on Nuis to all that was left to do was build a snowman and bask in the sunshine.

Next day after a days admin work we headed out for a late trip over the saddle between Glen Sannox and Glen Rosa. We made the saddle before sunset and walked out of Glen Rosa in the dark. Very atmospheric!

Crossing the saddle at the moment requires full winter skills. We went around the Whinstone Dyke as it is choked with unconsolidated snow and headed up left of the main difficulties on open slope. Not too bad but needed the ice axe and glad of the crampons. Consequences of a slip up here don't bear thinking about.