The Black Cave

If you've ever read up on the Arran Coastal Way you are probably familiar with the traverse of the Black Cave between the villages of Kilomory and Kildonan.  Its the only bit of the Way that is truly tidal, and although in my view not the most challenging section, care and planning are required to avoid problems on the route.  The cave itself is in the rocky cliffs of Bennan Head, a boulder strewn beach lies before it, which is partly covered except at low tide.  In rough weather (common here) it may not be possible to pass at all.

Low tide fell today at about half past twelve, and the opportunity for a leisurely meander over the rocks between the two villages was too good to miss. This stretch of coastline is a real hotspot for wildlife, including otters.  I've been watching otters in Kildonan all summer, but I'm keen to learn more about their territories and so it was with a view to finding signs of otters that I set out.

 A moody sky greeted me in Kildonan, but I knew the forecast was for a bright day.

 It wasn't long before I found clear signs of otters- these prints were on a beach just outside the village. 

 The area is also an important haul-out site for common (harbour) seals, who love the rocky shoreline. 

 Looking towards Bennan Head. 

 I often find badger prints on the beach here, and today I located a badger latrine near the path. 

 Massive tree trunk left well above the normal high tide mark.  Must have been some storm!

 Even in death, the markings on this immature gannet are beautiful. 

 At the black cave.  I couldn't linger here as I disturbed a young otter cub amongst the rocks who ran squeaking in to the sea.  Fortunately I saw it reunited with its mother seconds later. 

 Looking back towards the cave- you can just see the opening on the left.  There is a better picture of this stunning feature here.

The beach opens out again and the going gets easier as you come round the coast to Kilmory.

The final stretch of sandy beach before the track up to Kilmory.

Intensely Beautiful: Kayaking from Kildonan

I'm reassuringly behind on the blogging here which means that I am out and about having fun.  Here are some fantastic photos that my husband took whilst we were in our kayaks around Kildonan on Monday evening. We set off from the grassy slip way down to the beach opposite the village hall, and struck out east towards Bennan Head.  Almost immediately we were joined by a flotilla of curious harbour seals who followed us for a kilmoetre down the coast.

 I am surrounded!

Getting a good look at us. 

The tide was dropping and we drifted along the coast through forests of kelp and watched the nesting birds on the cliffs above in the haze. 

The Black cave looks like something from a film set, with a stunning waterfall on the west side. It is accessible on foot close to low tide but the path is very rough and bouldery (read non existant).

There are nesting fulmars on the cliffs above and it was the perfect place for little stop and a gaze...

After the Black Cave, we paddled over to the little island of Pladda, uninhabited now except for a large colony of seabirds including shags, eiders and common gulls that nest along the rocky shore. 

With so many birds about, landing was impossible, but it was good to sit and watch the comings and goings on the island from the little bay on the east side.

Glassy water, no wind, perfect for draw stroke practice. 

We headed back to the Kildonan Shore as the sun began to set. 

Couldn't leave this wee razorbill enjoying the warmth of the setting sun out of the album.  Love these birds!

Ice cream, otters, beach, oh and some bouldering....

I had a playday today (it is Easter after all) and had my first day off in a while. Ex Arran inhabitant Clare Y (she is a bit good) was up from Sheffield with her mate Tom so we headed down to the beach for some seriously hardcore.... otter watching....ice cream eating.... and in between climbed some rocks.
Kildonan has got a bit of scope for boulderers, and although the rock needs to be treated with care, it is quite fun. Watch out for the landings though, they can be very rocky and unpleasant.
As we were putting our rockshoes on we became aware of a high pitched whistling and discovered to our suprise a baby otter tucked away behind a rock just metres from our gear. We retreated to a kinder distance (jiggling with excitement- not cool)
and the little fella joined its mum and sibling in the sea. Later, whilst enjoying a well earned ice cream break, we watched the female fishing on the rising tide along the shore.
Arran is home to a lot of otters, how many is not known. They tend to have holts tucked away from view up the burnsides inland, but often forage along the shore and out to sea. The seem less shy and are easier to spot along the coast. A sighting inland is rare.
We did do some bouldering as well, and after lunch we headed down to another venue at the Cleats Shore. Even more esoteric with crumbling rock and cowpats, it is also Arran's nudist beach, although I have never been there on a day that anyone would want to take their clothes off.