The Castle

A slightly late post- (blame- computer malfunction) with some photos of Sunday's stomp up on to Caisteal Abhail, one of my favourite peaks on Arran (they might all be my favourites actually).

The north ridge

I'm bumping along with an annoying shoulder injury at the moment so we kept it easy on the upper body and stayed away from the amazing mountaineering on the Sleeping Warrior. It's possible to summit without too much scrambling by climbing the North Ridge and descending the curving arc of Sail an Im.

Cir Mhor and A'Chir

NE face of Cir Mhor

Fourth Wall, Cir Mhor

A lovely day today, and a day off for both of us so we headed in to Glen Rosa and had a look at Fourth Wall (Severe 4b) on the West Face of Cir Mhor. Wally led it in three pitches.  The first one takes the first couple of pitches of Souwester slabs.

The start to Fourth Wall and Souwester Slabs

The angle eases for the second pitch, and being classic Arran granite, there is lots of friction climbing to enjoy and rough flakes to grapple with.  After a full 60m rope length, Wally belayed beneath a menacing looking chimney. This is Variation A of Fourth Wall- the "chimney direct" and the most natural line for the route.  It's described on the web as being unprotectable, but in true Wally style he filled the bottom two thirds with good gear, although the final moves out of the chimney must have felt pretty heady and a long way above his last runner.

Wally at the base of the scary chimney.

It has swallowed him.

It is a scary looking chimney!

Bright and beautiful Arran hills

The weather is simply wonderful.  Today I was working in the hills with clients Constança and her cousin Mariana. We enjoyed stunning views and lots of good conversation as we went.  Constança is a marine biologist who is leading a European citizen science project to help monitor litter in our seas and on our beaches, so there was  plenty of interesting stuff us to talk about!  Her team have developed an app for recording marine litter that will help lobby policy makers and big business to get them to clean up their act. Android users can download the app here: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.litterwatch&hl=en

Our route took us up Glen Rosa and over Cir Mhor and Caisteal Abhail.  We lingered late and enjoyed the evening sunlight.  

Glen Rosa and Cir Mhor

Enjoying views out west to Ireland and Jura

Cir Mhor and Goatfell

On the summit of Caisteal Abhail

Not Today!

Today we went looking for that most wonderful and transient of things... an Arran winter route. We didn't find it..... though it is always worth staying optimistic... you've got to have a look! When it is "in" there is nowhere better to be. Here's one we did earlier.

Glen Sannox

North face of Cir Mhor

Heading up towards the Western Stoneshoot

Looking down W Stoneshoot

Wet!

First Snows

This title is all wrong of course, because Goatfell has been looking wintry for at least a week, but these are my first snows, and I've been enjoying them since the recent "Weather Bomb" storm abated.

This was Goatfell yesterday.  The wild spindrift was fun, I'd forgotten what a proper winter maelstrom feels like.  We didn't go to the top, because near the summit buttress it quickly turned less fun...

Today I was on my own and after a late start wandered in to Glen Rosa and up to The Saddle. The weather seemed comparatively quiet, and I enjoyed watching the Sea King from HMS Gannet training in the Glen. She attracted the attention of a Golden Eagle, and to my surprise, the eagle chased her over Goatfell and out of its territory.

HMS Gannet training in Glen Rosa

From The Saddle, I took the new path up to the summit of Cir Mhor (I think). The path was mostly buried, especially near the top so I ended up taking the turfiest line I could find between the drifts and the slabs. The snow was very fluffy and unconsolidated, and by the time I passed behind the Rosetta Stone I was wading above the knee. I did get some stunning views and for a change it was not too windy so I could enjoy playing with my new camera.... If anyone is wondering whether there is any winter climbing to be had one Arran I'd say... not yet.  Lots of powder, and turf frozen where exposed, but soft under all that snow, with no ice to be seen.

The Witches Step as seen from The Saddle

Big views down Glen Sannox

Gully behind the Rosetta Stone

The Western Hills from the west flank of Cir Mhor

Looking back towards Goatfell

Tracks left by one badass bunny rabbit on the summit.

Stacach and Goatfell, Showers and Sunshine

Today there was a chill in the air as the wind swung to the east and brisk blustery showers rolled in from the sea. I was working today on Goatfell and North Goatfell, with a lovely high traverse of Stacach Ridge, the rocky curtain that hangs between the two peaks. Its a great scramble, due to the damp weather, we avoided the trickiest sections with a wander along a traverse path that cuts under the buttresses on the east side.  Finally we topped out on Goatfell to fantastic panoramic views. 

Mist billowing over the rim of Mullach Buidhe

Stacach from North Goatfell.

Cir Mhor, posing nicely in the Autumn light.

Looking back towards North Goatfell from the summit of Goatfell.

Prospero's Prelude and a mean chimney, Cir Mhor

I'm feeling bruised and a bit exfoliated this morning after a typical day climbing on rough Arran granite yesterday.  Wally and I headed up to the south face of Cir Mhor in Glen Rosa.  The day was damp and clagged in when we set off , but by the time we had set off up the first pitch of Prospero's Prelude (moderate) the mist was lifting. The route gives great views of the harder lines on the South Ridge and the Rosa Pinnacle, and a fun access to the higher climbs near the summit.  After that we did a fierce chimney on the southern side of the summit buttress. We think it was Brodick Chimney (diff), but the guidebook description doesn't really fit so we are not sure. It certainly felt tough at diff with two chockstones and a through route at the top that was not for the broad of beam.

First pitch of Prospero's Prelude.  A mod with a few fun wee boulder problems.

Stunning views of the South Ridge and Rosa Pinnacle

Brodick Chimney? Wally going for full body exfoliation.

A last look up the glen to Cir Mhor on the way out.

Cir Mhor Ramble

I didn't see much evidence of ice forming from Goatfell on Saturday so we foolishly left this gear behind yesterday when we went to have a look at the back of Cir Mhor above Glen Sannox. This was an error, as Pan's Pipe, a rare grade III looked thin but doable. We decided to set off up Trap Dyke gully to the right to see if we could top rope the ice from above.  Belays are scarce on this part of the hill so in the end we headed up right from the first pitch of Trap Dyke on unprotected snow to gain the ramp above the wedge.  This slants back left to the shoulder on grade I-II ground.  In all we took 7 long pitches from the glen to the shoulder.  Gear was sparse, snow sugary, but turf and ice good. Descent off Cir Mhor to the saddle was grim under current snow conditions, but it was a great proper winter mountaineering ramble of a day.

Wintery Cir Mhor looming at the head of Glen Sannox

There was a short pitch of II to gain Coire na Uamh

Top of Pans Pipe from Trap Dyke

Heading out right to gain the ramp above the Wedge

Glorious views of Caisteal Abhail

On the ramp hunting for belays.

Looking across the saddle to Mullach Buidhe and Goatfell.

AMRT Training Exercise

Yesterday I was out with Arran Mountain Rescue Team (I'm a probationary member) on a training exercise in the Cir Mhor area.  It was a great opportunity for the team to practice skills for moving on steep ground and numerous small parties were to be found exploring the south face of Cir Mhor throughout the day. I'm nursing a sore elbow (golfers or tennis elbow- I forget which, but would be better named climbers or kayakers elbow in my case) so followed Alec and his very happy (hairy) dog Luing up on to the Castles for a leg stretch before descending the Sub Rosa Gully and catching up with the rest of the team under the face of Cir Mhor.

Arran Mountain Rescue Team is made up of men and women volunteers from all over the island who train together in the hope that they can assist when an emergency arises in the hills. As a charity, the team depends on donations and the support of the public for its work.  You can donate to the team here: http://www.justgiving.com/amrt

 Big Alec taking in the view on the summit of Caisteal Abhail

 Looking back towards Cir Mhor and Goatfell in between snow showers. 

 Along the ridge of the Sleeping Warrior

 Back under Cir Mhor, catching up with other team members. 

 South face of Cir Mhor and the Rosa Pinnacle, where some of the best rock climbing in Scotland can be found.

Having a brew by the Argo-Cat (all terrain vehicle) before returning to base.

Boing!

Spring has sprung and I'm bouncing back from the disappointment of an early end to winter and making the most of the new season. Yesterday Wally and I felt inspired to take the rope for a walk and have a look at the state of the rock at the top end of Glen Rosa. It was a damp dull cold day, with an icy wind, so we avoided the pitched climbing and went for a poke around on Achir. On the way up we were treated to a flypast by a golden eagle- flying low over the heather, and our heads at the top end of Glen Rosa.  Magic!

The Rosa Pinnacle on Cir Mhor skimmed with cloud. 

Side view of the Rosa Pinnacle, showing the slabs of the classic climb Souwester Slabs (VDiff).  South Ridge Direct (VS 5b) more or less follows the skyline. 

Looking down Glen Rosa

Wally scrambling on Achir. The weather deteriorated and as the green rock began to drip we retraced our steps from the trench under the Mauvais Pas and rethought our plans in to a walking day!

We took the traverse path that avoids the difficulties on Achir to the north side, and then through the Bowmans pass and over Beinn a Chliabhain. Here Wally emerges from the mist on Beinn a Chliabhain.