Taking it easy in La forêt de Fontainebleau

Trip reports from low grade boulderers are not exactly gripping stuff so I'll not bore you to death with the a blow by blow account of my recent climbing trip to the Foret de Fontainebleau.  I don't climb hard;  there are no stunning photos of death defying ascents. However, if you are an average uk trad climber and you've never been to "Font", thinking as any normal person would, that bouldering is too short lived/boring/you are a normal body weight/like to keep your top on:  then think again.  Its unlike bouldering anywhere else I've ever been.  The particular gang of forest wanderers I hang out with tend to do a lot of circuits, following colour coded trails around the forest, ticking off harder problems if distracted, but often simply rolling from boulder to boulder, following the dots, keeping the heart rate up and the muscles moving.  Its very sociable and a big laugh.  I'm not very good at the bouldering bit but the laughing comes naturally. Unless you have a serious croissant addiction its also the cheapest foreign climbing holiday out there. Here are a few photos to whet your appetite.

White circuits like this one at Canche aux Merciers are great for children of all ages, families and novice climbers

Up and over.... Following circuits is like following an adventure trail laid out by ingenious and mischievous pioneers. This is the Yellow at L'Elephant.

Extraordinary forest scenery.  Mer des Sables, Cul de Chien.

This PD+ slab is on a yellow circuit entwined with a harder Blue circuit at Roche aux Sabots, allowing many grades of climbers to climb together.

The local wildlife climbs pretty well too.

Sutherland Road Trip

I've lived in Scotland for 9 years, and although I'm definitely not a native, I certainly don't miss my southern roots all that much.  Its hard to imagine a time when I might choose to base myself south of the border again- nature is extravagant and regal here, the hills are empty and quiet as soon as you leave the beaten track.  I feel as though I could spend my entire life exploring this wild country, and only scratch the surface. However, until last weekend there was something specific that I missed about "down south"... something that felt irreplaceable and lost for ever in the move North....  I have periodically longed for the relaxed combination of sandy coves, rock climbing, surfing and rolling hills that I thought only Pembrokeshire in the West of Wales could provide.

Oldshoremore Bay, Sutherland

I was wrong. I've been to Sutherland before, on a different journey that encompassed the hills and the wide sweeping landscapes for which the "empty lands" are famous.  On this occasion however the hills were swathed in storms and gales, and so we naturally focused our attention on the coasts.  Dodging showers and blustery winds, we found plenty of our own fun, bouldering in secret bays and surfing empty breaks. This was a beach holiday just like my long weekends of ancient past.  Surf, weather and rock, with mugs of hot chocolate and drams of fiery whisky to warm us after getting soaked on the beach. Not exactly like Pembrokeshire, but similar, and better, because between the cloudbursts, the skies might clear, to reveal Sutherland's other side, magestic peaks, marching over the empty flow country, like giant dinosaurs in the desert.

We began our adventure at Brora on the east coast.  Home of Clynelish distillery and a quiet windswept beach behind the links golf course. We braved the north sea surf for the first time and found it warmer than expected. From here we headed to Scourie and a deserted campsite to get a wash and some mod cons.  The following day we watched showers blast along the coast, cheering as they kept on missing us and we explored the empty beaches and headlands beyond Kinlochbervie.  There is unlimited bouldering potential here, at every grade.

Boogie board at Brora

Wally catches a wave

Scourie sunset

Bouldering on the beach at Oldshoremore

Taking in the view after an evening bouldering at Droman Pier. 

We found a secluded spot for the van that evening, cracked open the Clynelish, and sat on the slipway at the water's edge swaddled in primaloft while a salty gale blew in. The van was battered all night by the wind but we slept soundly in our whisky haze.  The following morning the weather was barely better.  We set off for the famous Sandwood bay, and were blown across 7km of moorland on the approach, the bouldering mat acting as a sail. The beach is worth the walk.  If you are lucky enough to visit, don't be one of the sad-sacks who slogs over the hill, takes a few pictures and leaves.  The true nature of the place takes a while to sink in.  We spent a few hours there running among the dunes and crags, splashing in the sea and leaping in to the sand. We nearly lost the bouldering mat, which cartwheeled across the beach before the wind.   Next time we will bring a rope as the climbing looks fabulous.  The rock is a strange glassy gneiss that is absolutely bomproof and gorgeous to the touch.  It looks permanently wet- making it harder to spot the places where it genuinely does seep...

The long walk in to Sandwood Bay

Perfect sandy landings at Sandwood.

Sandwood Bay

Strathy Bay surf

On our final day, we returned to the waves, this time on the north coast, surfing in the rain at Strathy. Autumn has many gifts but most people don't include the weather, unless they like water!

Beinn Nuis Lockheed C-60A Lodestar 42-56014 Crash Site

There are a number of air crash sites from WWII on Arran, including three on Beinn Nuis.  Two of these are fairly accessible, but the third, a Lockheed  C-60A Lodestar flying from Prestwick to Stornoway in 1943, is located high in a remote gully and not easy to reach.
I was contacted by a family member of one of the victims who hoped to visit the site.  Luckily he is fellow mountain fan, and so we enjoyed an adventurous day exploring the slopes and gullies between the Nuis Face and the Flat Iron Tower.  Although the visibility was virtually nil, it wasn't long before we found the site.  Being there with someone who has a direct connection to the site brought home  in a very poignant way, the loss and sacrifice that so many young airman and their families suffered during WWII.

The plane came down almost 70 years ago on the 30th Sept 1943. Seven people were on board and all were lost. There is more information about this and other air crash sites on Arran available online here.

Stacach and Goatfell, Showers and Sunshine

Today there was a chill in the air as the wind swung to the east and brisk blustery showers rolled in from the sea. I was working today on Goatfell and North Goatfell, with a lovely high traverse of Stacach Ridge, the rocky curtain that hangs between the two peaks. Its a great scramble, due to the damp weather, we avoided the trickiest sections with a wander along a traverse path that cuts under the buttresses on the east side.  Finally we topped out on Goatfell to fantastic panoramic views. 

Mist billowing over the rim of Mullach Buidhe

Stacach from North Goatfell.

Cir Mhor, posing nicely in the Autumn light.

Looking back towards North Goatfell from the summit of Goatfell.

Beinn Nuis, Beinn Tarsuinn and Beinn a Chliabhain

The Three Beinns of Beinn Nuis, Tarsuinn and Chliabhain form one of the best ridge walks on Arran and one I'm always happy to be working on.  Yesterday Anne and had a great day doing this classic horseshoe. 

Highland cattle enjoying the lush grass in Glen Rosa

We took a leisurely start and enjoyed the sunshine in Glen Rosa. However, it wasn't long before we were climbing up out of the glen alongside the rocky gorge of the Garbh Allt.  Higher up we crossed the river, before beginning the steep climb up the southern ridge of Beinn Nuis.

Views down the ridge towards Brodick and Lamlash Bays

Looking across to Beinn Tarsuinn from Beinn Nuis summit.

From Beinn Nuis, we took a high level stroll amongst magnificent rock architecture to the summit of Beinn Tarsuinn, guarded by the stern face of the Old Man of Tarsuinn, who keeps a look out from close to the summit.

The Old Man of Tarsuinn

From Beinn Tarsuinn, a steep descent and a high pass led us to the final summit of the Three Beinns, the diminutive peak of Beinn a Chliabhain.  This mountain is dwarfed by its neighbours, but the fine crest offers great views of the entire Goatfell range.

The meadow face of Beinn Tarsuinn from Beinn a Chliabhain

A' Chir, Caisteal Abhail and Cir Mhor from Beinn a Chlibhain.

Ben Nevis Weekend

This weekend I was working for Walkabout Scotland in Lochaber, with a guided Ben Nevis day on Saturday, followed by a blissful leg-stretcher in Glen Nevis before heading south on Sunday.

The hoards in the mist on the summit.

There were the usual shenanigans on The Ben,  with poor visibility, jeans and plimsolls, rhinoceros outfits and even a brass band (see BBC report here). If you've not climbed it before and are thinking about it, don't be lured in to a false sense of security by the zillions of under equipped folk that climb it with you.  I'm constantly amazed and relieved that the majority of people make it down tired but happy without calling on the Lochaber MRT volunteers for help. Its a dangerous mountain, and should be treated with respect.

As we descended, the mist lifted and gave us a great view to the south west.

Sunday's walk up Glen Nevis was a stunner.  We started from the lower falls carpark and took the path on the south side of the glen, joining the road for a short section.

Glen Nevis

The highlight of the walk is the lovely Steall Meadow and enormous waterfall that dominates the upper glen beyond the Steall Gorge. 

Entering the Steall Meadow with the main falls beyond.

Knoydart Expedition 2013

I'm fortunate that my work takes me to some fantastic places, and this week was no exception, as I was part of a team supervising a Gold Practice DofE expedition in Knoydart. I've done this route before, in better weather, when the ground was so dry that finding water to drink was tricky.  This time Knoydart was her more typical watery self.

The adventure begins here.... the train from Glenfinnan to Mallaig.

Rough old crossing to Inverie on the Knoydart Peninsula

A mucky morning for some nav practice and a trek through the glens to the northwest

It brightened up for a paradise camp

Bliss....

Passing remote hamlets on the west coast... a landing craft.... why not?

Heading back towards Inverie and a night in Gleann Meadail.

Climbing up through the Glen the next morning.

Scary bridge at the Carnach

Good timing, arriving at Sourlies at low tide and in time for lunch.

Leaving Sourlies as the rain sets in.

I'm in love with the high pass to Glen Dessary.... The "Rough Bounds"

Final day was VERY wet. A soggy climb from up to the pass in to Glenfinnan.